Spring Start Up

SPRING START-UP

The thaw is complete and our Nishikigoi are finally becoming active. Here are a few tips to get everyone off to a good start this spring.

1 - Do a thorough inspection of your system. Make sure all seals around skimmers, drains and waterfalls remain intact and in good condition. Make sure that O-ring seals at pump connections are not cracked, if so replace them. Take a quick look at electrical sockets to make sure they are clean and secure. If there is any doubt as to the integrity of your electrical components replace them our have an electrician ensure they are safe. If your circuits are not GFCI protected, have them added before you start the system up. A small investment in a safe system is wise, no one wants to be front page news that way!

2 - Do a thorough cleaning. Remove all leaves, sticks and other debris before temps rise and decay sets in. If you do not have a bottom drain, spend time cleaning out accumulated sludge from the bottom of you pond. This is the biggest threat to water quality and the health of you Koi! If you root around in the bottom and bubbles come up that smell like rotten eggs your Koi are in danger. That smell is hydrogen sulfide gas and it is highly toxic. If you have this situation in play you need to make changes to your mechanical system, maintenance practices and frequency, or all the above.

Products such as Microbe Lift PL have a very loyal following in the Watergarden hobby for its effectiveness at reducing the amount of sludge and debris present. The Oase Pond Vac also works very well at removing debris from the bottom. It has a two chambered system, so your time is spent cleaning the pond, not the Vac. If you have no other means net out as much as possible or drain your system and clean by hand.

3 - Do a couple of 25% water changes and use dechlorinator. Aged water has many benefits including good bacteria and established pH, but aged water can also have higher levels of nitrate which will encourage an algae bloom. Old water will also tend to be depleted of minerals an other nutrients necessary for healthy Koi. Older water in liner ponds also tends to be lowered in alkalinity which can cause the pH to be subjected to wide daily fluctuations. The rule for a heathy pond is weekly 10% water changes, slightly more volume for smaller ponds.

4 - Most losses of Nishikigoi occur after the thaw as water temps increase. The immune system of Koi function very well above 70 deg F. It is suppressed between 50-70 deg F, and is all but non-functioning below 50 deg F. Aeromonas bacteria, which is responsible for a large percentage of surface and systemic infections, is active in these colder temps. The term “aeromonas alley” has been adopted as the range from 38-52 deg F. It is in this temp zone that you need to check your Koi daily for signs of surface infections (redness or broken skin) which occur mostly on the lower half of the body and mouth. Surface infections can be treated with topical antibiotics and disinfectants. Redness of the fins, red streaks, bulging eyes, or a noticeably swelled body are indications of systemic bacteria infection which need immediate veterinary care. Injectable antibiotics are about your only remedy at this point and only a Vet can provide these drugs.

5 - Even though you see your Nishikigoi increasing their daily activity resist the urge to begin feeding them until water temps are above 50 deg F. Koi do not have stomachs and they are cold blooded. Thus they have a weak, temperature dependent digestive system, and their metabolism is slow at lower temps. As the water warms above 50 F begin feeding small amounts every other day. Increase frequency and amount of feedings as the water warms into the 70’s.

6 - Do regular cleanings of you mechanical filter media, as heavier than normal levels of debris at this time of the year will cause them to become clogged more quickly. When this occurs the media is in danger of being bypassed by the oxygen rich water. Without oxygen the debris will break down anaerobically and release toxins into the pond.

7 - Avoid disturbing your bioreactor media as this will slow the bacteria’s development. Test for ammonia and nitrite to judge feeding rates vs. bioreactor functional levels vs. the need for increased water change frequency.

8 - If you have a UV light get it going early. Without a canopy of leaves overhead providing shade our ponds get a lot of early season sun, leading to green water for many. UV’s work very well at controlling free floating algae without the need for chemical treatments. Don’t believe the marketing by some that a UV will inhibit your bioreactor. If you have a new system you may want to wait a few weeks before plugging in the UV for your bioreactor to get up and going. However, if your bioreactor was functioning in the fall the bacteria are still present. Your system will begin to process toxins as the water warms. You don’t need several bottles of “magic goo” and chemicals every season to have a healthy system!

If this section has brought up more questions for you, please feel free to call us up and we will be glad to offer specific advise for your individual system requirements.

Good Luck This Summer!